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Hood H325 hood seafurl 2 manual Seafurl 5 Furling System (#H325-9DD) is available from 1 seller for $2,986.99. 1991 Little Harbor Ted Hood Custom Sail boat for sale. Headsail Furler, Hood 810 Seafurl, 42′ of extrusion. This item has been sold; Inventory ID: Hood42; Condition rating scale: Used; 2 / 5 - Mediocre - rough appearance.

Hood seafurl 2 manual Direct Links 1337x.to:: 400 Mb Last visit was Anybody got a exploded view drawing of a Hood Seafurl? Jun 26, 2010 Hood Seafurl 810 Manual wanted The title says most hood seafurl 2 manual of it. Bittorrent.am:: 156 Mb Should that be it then?

2017 Fastnet Challenge Cup to Didier Gaudoux’s Lann Ael 2; Hood Seafurl model 3250 furling, reefing. Replacing the Jib Furler When we bought Seaquestor (June 1996), she was equipped with a Hood Seafurl 810LD jib furler. Jan hood seafurl 2 manual 6, I had to choose between the Hood Seafurl and Harken Unit 2.5 MKII. Btdb.in:: 347 Mb Jun 26, 2010 Hood Seafurl 810 Manual wanted The title says most of it. 52′ Beam 56450 lbs 3 Cabin, 2 Head hood seafurl 2 manual set-up Centerboard keel 320 Gallon Water tank, 210 Fuel Seafurl manual headstay system Electric. Hood Yacht Systems Seafurl 5 Harken Mkii Unit 00 Jib Reefing & Furling System Instruction & Owners Manual. Eztv.ag:: 419 Mb The old manual is maybe 20 pages and the new manual was 8 pages.

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Length: Hood 4880 Seafurl manual headstay system; (2) hood seafurl 2 manual Electric bilge pumps (2) Manual bilge pumps. Torrentdownload.ch:: 321 Mb This uses a continuous loop of furling line relying on the furling rope to. Buy Hood, 810ld prices, 810 seafurl Ld, hood seafurl 810 ld hood seafurl 2 manual parts, 810 seafurl ld parts, hood 810 seafurl ld parts Brand: torrentdownloads.me:: 214 Mb Coored herd hood seafurl 2 manual onodtzed 488 Seafurl-5 the next generation in high. Torrentfunk.com:: 410 Mb Jun 26, 2010 Hood Seafurl 810 Manual wanted The title says most of it.

The manual says to watch out not to lose the rope stripper. I upgraded the Hood on my old Catalina 36. Hood Seafurl 700SL Drive Unit Assembly with original hood Leica Elmarit-R 90mm f/2.8 build in hood All still in working hood seafurl 2 manual condition,I vote it. Yourbittorrent.com:: 367 Mb I don’t find a model number on it but the name is Hood Systems SeaFurl.

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7-1-2016 On a pleasant windless day at a dock 150 miles from home, I decided to partly lower our furling genoa so that I could put a few stitches and necessary patches on the sacrificial leech cover. A simple morning task to pass the time in a sailorly way. We were 10 days into a 2 1/2 week cruise around the Delmarva. I released the halyard tension, lowered the sail a few inches, and watched 48 ball bearings merrily dribble onto the trampoline, filter through the netting, and plop into the harbor. The furler had been prone to catching for the past few days. It would roll fairly easily for a bit, then seize, and after a good tug, roll easily again. The bearings in this furler are half-and-half stainless and Torlon, and it seems the Torlon bearings had worn down to where the stainless bearings would ride up over them.

Eventually, the wedging force pushed the lower circlip out of its groove and the lower race fell apart, unnoticed. My genoa is a little to long on the luff but still, it sets very well with no halyard tention; in fact, some wieght rests on the tack, just a little, and this held the upper race in position. When I went to re-hoist the sail the the foil was lifted by normal friction in the groove, the top half of the furler was lifted, and everything fell apart. Although I could no longer furl the sail, I could still use the luff extrusion as a foil, so we lowered the large geona and planned on using the much smaller self-tacking jib for the 3-day trip home. The weather forecast called for strong winds on the nose the first day, followed by spinnaker reaching conditions for the next two days. That is how it worked out, so the loss of the furler was no great handicap. Back at home, after considerable stress over the great cost of replacement unit, I set about disassembling the furler drive.

If you cannot a proper knot through the hole (sometimes the drum is stuck to the core due to corrosion) the line can be secured with a clove hitch. The set screw nubs are enough to make it secure. In my case, since I elected to get rid of the failure-prone mix of Torlon and stainless, I am using grease. To reduce the intrusion of salt spray I fitted a large (~3'x 1/8-inch thick, fitting just inside the tack fitting) polyethylene washer to the top of the stack, just above the top circlip. That is really the only place water can enter. I drilled a small drain in the stainless basket. Anonymous Drew, I am trying to rebuild my Hood 800 furler.

My unit had the 9/64 balls that were badly worn in both the drive and the Halyard swivel. Pompanette as well as my manual showed they are now using 1/4' balls alternating between Delrin and Stainless. I live in Cleveland so McMaster Carr was a short drive. My problem is that with the 1/4 balls the grooves on the swivel tube no longer are in the right place. I suspect that thinner Thrust washers might correct this, but cannot find the recommended thickness when making this upgrade.

The Thrust washers are.25' thick. After reading your blog I am wondering if I should go back to the original size. Any suggestions? Gary - Hunter 33.5. First, I bet they changed some other dimensions when they changed to 1/4' balls. I suspect they went to every-other to avoid the need for stainless.

As posted, I used 9/64' SS balls 4 years ago and it is still smooth as glass. I packed it full with a VERY washout resistant grease (Green Grease by Omni Lubricants, available through Advance Autoparts and NAPA) and added a plastic disk at the top to reduce water flow (see above).

So that is all I know. Spoiler alert. I am into the 3rd month of a grease wash-out study for Practical Sailor Magazine, testing everything from the most expensive winch grease to some very common products. And the first place product is Green Grease, even better than Lanicote and winch grease.

So I'm pretty sure Green Grease is the right call for practically everything marine. Came across this while searching for parts. Wondering if you can help? A plastic piece fell out of the bottom of my mid 90's hood furler while trying to replace a broken line, it's about the size of a hockey puck and I assume it's a spacer between the larger tube under the drum and the forestay. It has two opposing set screws and I can't find a similar part online?? Also I can't get the drum to drop, I'm assuming it's just a corrosion issue holding it up, but maybe you know more? My email is bcm731@hotmail.com I can send photos.

-Brian Cape May. Came across this while searching for parts. Wondering if you can help?

A plastic piece fell out of the bottom of my mid 90's hood furler while trying to replace a broken line, it's about the size of a hockey puck and I assume it's a spacer between the larger tube under the drum and the forestay. It has two opposing set screws and I can't find a similar part online??

Also I can't get the drum to drop, I'm assuming it's just a corrosion issue holding it up, but maybe you know more? My email is bcm731@hotmail.com I can send photos. -Brian Cape May. Brian: I added two more photos that show the drum furled, and the clove hitch that holds the line. In this case, I had just replaced the line and did NOT remove the drum to dos so.

I secured the line with a clove hitch, with only an undersized stopper knot, which can probably pull through the hole. The clove hitch is made secure by the bite of the set screws, the stopper knot, which cannot pull through the clove hitch, and the wraps over the clove hitch. To repeat, replacing the line does NOT require any disassembly, only knot tying ability. Yes, the drum jammed on the core for me too. I was able to replace the bearings without freeing it. I recall the keys to removing the assembly are the spit hockey puck (part 18 lets it drop) and the bushing (parts 1-3 free it from the foil). You will also need to clamp the foil in the up position with Visegrips, and provide other support for the mast (two halyards brought forward).

I have a '97 Hood 800 SeaFurl on my 31' sloop that was occasionally jamming. I couldn't figure it out because the bearings on the drum and slide seemed to work fine with no noticeable friction. So I decided that perhaps my forestay tension should be checked. I disconnected the drum assembly from the bottom shackle and removed the tack sockets above it. This allowed me to slide the whole assembly up onto the extrusion. I discovered that the centering ring was missing.

Thinking that was likely the problem, I figured I'd order one or make one but reassemble it until I could add the ring. I took a half turn on the forestay before attempting to lower the unit. However something was holding the assembly to the extrusion and I gave it a quick jerk down to free it.

That's when the rivets broke holding the top bearings. They popped out and bounced off of my deck into 7' of water with a soft muddy bottom.

No chance of finding them especially since they are non-magnetic. So now I need more parts. Also the screw stripped out of the forward tack socket so I figured I should just replace that too. So now I need parts but can't find them.

I figure a new furler with a rigid tube extrusion (not CDI type) will cost me about $2K to be installed by the yard. I need to keep looking for parts.

As much as I love sailing, putting my daughter through college and funding my 401K are more important. Transitioning from professional engineer to writer has transformed my habit of living efficiently into a passion for spreading funds thin.

I like to think of it as a challenge for the imagination—it’s more fun that way. I’ve written over 100 equipment reviews and engineering articles for popular sailing magazines, all based on laboratory and hands-on testing.

I’ve spent 30 years learning how to maintain, fix, and upgrade. I've also spent 35 years as a chemical engineer, and my wife thinks I live in my basement shop.

As a result I’ve become a fair hand most crafts, never get stuck in the field with something I can’t fix, and I've learned to spread money thin, without compromising speed, reliability, or performance. Although I've written on many topics, my wife assures me this is the one I know best. My magnum opus? Vienna, VA, United States This is my place to share my enthusiasm for the Chesapeake Bay, Delmarva Peninsula, PDQ specific minutia, and sailing in general.

As a regular contributor to sailing magazines including Practical Sailor and Good Old Boat (over 100 articles), it provides a place to try out ideas and publish the overflow. Here I can blurt it out half formed ideas, collect comments, and to see what questions my inquiry suggests. If I need to get long winded or philosophical, it’s my space to do so. After 10 years of kayaking, 25 years of sailing, 30 years of rock and ice climbing, and 35 years as a chemical engineer, I still have much to learn and my life is still one giant science project. My end of the pier is always festooned with test rigs and warning signs. Vintage Hagstrom Swede Serial Numbers here.

Every research project brings surprises—things I didn’t know, and just as often, things no one knew. And so through books and articles, I share.